During Japan’s Edo period, fantastical displays of extravagant costume and makeup emerged in the nation’s highly stylized performance art, Kabuki. Today, this spectacle can be seen here in Paris. For its 17th exhibition, The Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent is showcasing the iconic costumes of traditional Japanese Kabuki theater. Presenting 34 costume pieces, accompanied by accessories, engravings, and photographs, the exhibition is the first of its kind in Paris.
The exhibition opens dramatically with a bold ensemble of five intricately decorated satin kimonos made in the second half of the 20th century. Emblazoned with lavish gold-trimmed ornamentation of flowers, flames, and leaves, these relatively recent creations stay true to the country’s rich sartorial past. A projected film plays a traditional kabuki scene. Its distinct vocals and instrumentation reverberate throughout the space of the exhibition, continually grounding the spectacle within its cultural context.
This first set of kimonos and several that follow showcase the five costumes from the most celebrated plays of Kabuki repertoire. As one moves into the second room it becomes noticeable that the range in design and materials is great. A series of bright violet crepe kimonos in high contrast designs of splashes of water, roosters, clouds, dragon claws and tongues make a dynamic display. An imposing ceremonial kimono rotates slowly, enwrapped by its oversized, billowing sleeves. Other kimonos of sizable proportions hang, flaunting meticulously constructed layers of taffeta and brocaded silk.
The second part of the exhibition features dance costumes. Dance is an essential element of Kabuki tradition. In addition to the strict stylized movement perfected by its performers, Kabuki theater always features dance with at least one choreographed number in each play. In front of a backdrop of cascading flowers, four dance kimonos in intricate floral design are presented, each accompanied by a contrasting obi sash.
The final section of the exhibition includes the collection’s most ancient pieces. Two heavy winter kimono and jacket ensembles are constructed of textured damask silk. In the same row, a delicate kimono made entirely of paper presents a sharp material contrast. Throughout the exhibition, accessories, from slippers to swords, accompany various pieces to provide complete looks. Numerous woodblock prints also enrich the visual understanding of the elements, imparting context by historically relevant means.
(Photo by Franck Mura, WWD)
