Designers Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg can be counted on to deliver a calculated collection composed tightly around a theme, and it was no different for Spring/Summer 2013.
Peachoo+Krejberg’s latest collection achieved a workable fusion between edgy and classic, gothic and fantastical. Like ghosts of ancient battles, pallid-faced models introduced monochromatic pieces to a moody thumping bass that interchanged between exotic jungle beats and eerie crescendos. The designers, rooted in distinct cultures themselves, drew from a diverse gamut of inspirations. The result, however, is saved from schizophrenia due to well-exercised control and restraint.
For starters, Peachoo and Krejberg didn’t stray from their signature black and white. Grey was introduced, almost as an indulgence, providing some breathing room partway into the collection. From color to cut to cloth, the addition of each new element was executed with formulaic precision. Maintaining meticulous simplicity, the designers delivered variations on a theme with high contrast materials – gossamer, leather, sequins and lace. Juxtaposition was key to the execution, with pairings of sheer white sheaths caged in by black leather strap ribcages and heavily bejeweled vests. The Spartan aggression put forth by harder elements calling back to medieval armor balanced the overly fragile femininity and nearly tacky glitz.
Asymmetrical draping and racerback cuts fixed the collection as modern while sheaths of white lace doilies and 1920s flapperesque embellishments infused a vintage vibe. The collection’s constant was layers, and lots of them. They were executed in skewed geometric shapes and high contrast fabrics. Draped sheer prints, hung about in an evening dress manner, proved to be the weakest note brought to the collection’s composition. Otherwise, the mixing and remixing of fixed elements produced a coherent collection strictly adhering to the brand’s genetic code.
Long before the models organized themselves in the stark white room, the final looks on display in militant formation, the message of the collection was clear. The unlikely pairing between a glamorized militaristic motif and futuristic deconstruction made for an attractive demonstration in controlled experimentation. There was no climax, but instead a systematic presentation of variations on all possible combinations.
Designers Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg founded their brand Peachoo+Krejberg in 2004, bringing together two contrasting cultures (Peachoo is of Indian origin and Krejberg is Danish) into a bold but controlled remix of a fine-tuned modern aesthetic. Peachoo gained experience with design at a French womenswear company after moving to Paris in the ‘80s. Krejberg studied at the Danish Academy of Fashion and Design before working on the menswear collections for the house of Kenzo. After Kenzo Takada’s departure Krejberg became Kenzo Homme’s creative director until 2003.
All photos by Marshall Lewis for The7eme.
Written for The7eme.com.
Copyright © The7eme.com 2012
