The lights finally dimming in the large white tent of the Jardin des Tuileries signalled the approaching end of Paris Fashion Week. The last big name on the show schedule, Elie Saab, succeeded in delivering a sparkling display of the label’s established genetic code while playing with youthful punchy accents.

The Lebanese designer opened his show with brights in bold block colors of royal blue, turquoise and raspberry pink. Minimalistic as they were, the monochromatic ensembles delivered drive: sleek modern and fitted bodices with grosgrain ribbon framing the feminine contour with clean geometry. Models were suited up in day looks for today’s woman, inspired by the show’s title “Heiress”. The show’s notes and selection of slick suits underscore that “there’s more to her than that: she’s an artist, a photographer, a blogger or a philanthropist.” Whatever her work, she certainly works it, bag in hand.

Despite the professional sensibilities of his opening pieces, Saab still lets loose for Spring. Unexpected Technicolor splashes punctuated the established colour palette, vivifying the runway with bespattered effects. Despite the audacious prints the pieces maintained elegance with fluid skirts and classic silhouettes.

The collection played with pairings of contrasting materials, balancing feminine frill with strong sexiness. The edginess of exposed skin was reined in by modest necklines and hemlines. Flowing fabrics were harnessed by clean lines and sharp angles. A V-shape, beginning just below the bust and narrowing down the torso, was quickly established as the mainstay of the collection. The distinct half-diamond reemerged as peekaboo lace on a full-length (and otherwise conservative) dress, as a high contrast bandage design on a Hervé Leger-esque number, and finally in a crisp all-white catsuit.

Sexy sharp as it was, the collection was strictly feminine. A flowing strapless evening dress the sole exception, every evening look came in at the natural female waist. Lace was generously distributed throughout sequined fairytale looks, made modern with intermittent interruptions of horizontal grosgrain bands and sheer mesh. The collection delivered clean-cut, confident, no-fuss glamour, and, as always expected of Saab, a generous assortment of red carpet-ready looks.

Published in Dash Magazine, October 24, 2012.

Written by Dacy Knight, Photography by Marshall Lewis, staff Photographer at the7eme.com.